“Greens and organic farming have grown up together,” says chef Annie Somerville. For the past fourteen years, she has presided over the kitchen at Greens, which, she says, “was in there early on,” offering completely vegetarian fare with an emphasis on locally grown, fresh organic produce. “Now,” she says, “there’s a whole industry that focuses on fresh, organic, sustainable produce. Americans are more and more aware of what they eat, and where their food comes from, and I like to think Greens contributes to that.” But she emphasizes that Greens is not evangelical. “We don’t proselytize. The word ‘vegetarian’ will not appear in the restaurant. We don’t talk about it, we do it.”
GREENS RATATOUILLE
Make this stew at the height of summer, when eggplant, peppers, and tomatoes couldn’t be better. As the vegetables slowly simmer, their sweet juices soak up the flavor of the fragrant fresh herbs. You can use Greek oregano in place of the marjoram, but taste it first–oregano’s strong, pungent flavor can overpower the delicate basil. Serve over creamy soft polenta sprinkled with grated Parmesan. This ratatouille’s even better the next day, served at room temperature with crusty sourdough bread and salty black olives.
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium-size red onion, cut into quarters and thickly sliced Salt and pepper
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 medium-size Japanese eggplants, cut in half lengthwise, then sliced 3/4-inch thick on a diagonal, about 3 cups
2 medium-size bell peppers, cut into thick strips and then triangles, about 2 cups
1 pound summer squash, cut into thick slices or wedges
2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, about 3 cups
1 bay leaf
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or Greek oregano
Heat olive oil in a large skillet and add onion, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper. Sauté over medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, eggplant, peppers, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper; sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, until eggplant and peppers are just tender. Add summer squash, tomatoes, bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a few pinches of pepper. Stew over low heat for about 20 minutes, until everything is tender. Add basil and marjoram or oregano just before serving. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serves four.
Adapted from Fields of Greens: New Vegetarian Recipes fromthe Celebrated Greens Restaurant by Annie Somerville. Copyright © 1993, Annie Somerville. Reprinted with permission of Bantam Books.
In addition to happy in-house dining, Greens offers a successful take-out business, “Greens to Go.” And wine lovers–vegetarian or not–know the restaurant’s famously long and diverse wine list. Greens shares the Fort Mason Building, an old army warehouse, with fifty nonprofit arts, cultural, and environmental organizations that give the restaurant a bit of a built-in clientele. But most San Franciscans keep coming back for the great atmosphere and stunning views as they enjoy the delicious fresh food. That’s a combination that should keep Greens in business for at least the next twenty years.
