Spice Island

1 / 5
Torch ginger—called by its Malay name, bunga kantan, in Singapore—bears a blazing edible pink flower, which can be mixed into fruit salad.
Torch ginger—called by its Malay name, bunga kantan, in Singapore—bears a blazing edible pink flower, which can be mixed into fruit salad.
2 / 5
Dr. Li Lian Xing works at the Chinese pharmacy located inside the Imperial Herbal Restaurant, where he checks the client’s pulse and tongue, then wraps up medicinal herbs for them to cook into their food at home.
Dr. Li Lian Xing works at the Chinese pharmacy located inside the Imperial Herbal Restaurant, where he checks the client’s pulse and tongue, then wraps up medicinal herbs for them to cook into their food at home.
3 / 5
Stalky lemongrass grows in clumps throughout Southeast Asia and adds a light, lemon-scented flavor to regional dishes.
Stalky lemongrass grows in clumps throughout Southeast Asia and adds a light, lemon-scented flavor to regional dishes.
4 / 5
The aromatic pandan (screw pine) leaf has a multitude of uses, including as a dessert flavoring, hair rinse, and natural insect repellent.
The aromatic pandan (screw pine) leaf has a multitude of uses, including as a dessert flavoring, hair rinse, and natural insect repellent.
5 / 5
At the Kang Meng San Phor Kark See Temple, as in most Buddhist temples in Singapore, flowers and fruits are common devotional offerings.
At the Kang Meng San Phor Kark See Temple, as in most Buddhist temples in Singapore, flowers and fruits are common devotional offerings.

At the southern tip of the Thai/Malaysian peninsula lies the 400-square-mile island of Singapore–a diminutive country with a reputation as an economic and culinary giant. Lying along the sea lanes between China and India, Singapore was historically a spot where trader vessels docked and pirate ships lurked, awaiting plunder. As a result of centuries of spice and cultural trade, lively Singapore combines exotic cooking traditions from India, Malaysia, Indonesia, and China.

When I visited Singapore, my first foray into Asia, I was dazzled by its multi-ethnic food. The magic of Singapore cuisine–whether it’s Indian curry or Indonesian satay–lies in its tropical herbs and fruits. I’ve never before tasted so many unusual flavors in one place. Though much of Singapore is a sleek, modern city, there are still old-world enclaves filled with the aroma of spices, incense, and flowers. Little India, Arab Street, and Chinatown are home to colorful Hindu, Moslem, Taoist, and Buddhist temples; piquant Indian, Chinese, and Malaysian foods; and bustling herb and food markets.

Singapore’s history has always been linked to spices. Indian and Chinese trading was already underway all along the Malaysian peninsula by the fifth century a.d. The Chinese were keen to buy Singapore’s aromatic woods; its tropical forests were a rich source of medicinal camphor. Even today, camphor makes the island famous, as it’s a primary ingredient in a popular Singapore export: the topical analgesic called Tiger Balm. In the nineteenth century, the island was scattered with spice plantations that produced pepper, nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon. Many of these spices found their way across the world to Singapore’s colonial ruler, the British Empire.

Singapore’s ethnic enclaves

Singapore’s three main ethnic inhabitants–Indian, Malay, and Chinese–all have their herbal traditions. In Little India, shops sell colorful saris and display barrels and bags of cumin, coriander, curry, and other spices. Hindu fortune tellers wait on sidewalks with their parrots who choose the card that foretells your future. And outside the many Hindu temples, vendors thread fragrant flowers such as jasmine into elaborate garlands to give to the gods. Inside the temples, offerings of the garlands, plates filled with spices, pomelos (related to grapefruits), pineapples, and bananas surround the feet of the many deities. With these food gifts, worshippers plead their case to the gods.

  • Published on Oct 1, 2002
Online Store Logo
Need Help? Call 1-800-234-3368